When they reach the top, their mouths flop open with amazement, making a line of perfect cartoon O's.Before them are dozens of massive stone pillars arranged into a set of rings, one mashed up against the next.Known as Göbekli Tepe (pronounced Guh-behk--peh), the site is vaguely reminiscent of Stonehenge, except that Göbekli Tepe was built much earlier and is made not from roughly hewn blocks but from cleanly carved limestone pillars splashed with bas-reliefs of animals—a cavalcade of gazelles, snakes, foxes, scorpions, and ferocious wild boars.
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The buses (white, air-conditioned, equipped with televisions) blunder over the winding, indifferently paved road to the ridge and dock like dreadnoughts before a stone portal.
Visitors flood out, fumbling with water bottles and MP3 players. Paying no attention, the visitors straggle up the hill.
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Every now and then the dawn of civilization is reenacted on a remote hilltop in southern Turkey.
The reenactors are busloads of tourists—usually Turkish, sometimes European.
When these pillars were erected, so far as we know, nothing of comparable scale existed in the world.
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